Stockholm is laid out over 14 islands, and there are waterways around many of the suburbs as well. The main body of water at the center of the city, Mälaren, meets the Baltic sea, where boats go out to the archipelago in summer, and cruise ships travel to Finland and Estonia from Slussen year-round.

There are also local ferries, like the Djurgården ferry, running between Slussen and Gröna Lund amusement park. When boarding the ferry at Slussen, if you've heard Djurgårdsfärjan över Styx, you may hear Åke Hodell's phantom crow calls, intoned: “Karons Kråkor: Kraa! Kraa!”, seeping over the Mälaren as he travels across the water, so many years ago, from his former home in Gamla Stan to his new abode on Djurgården: the island where he felt himself an exile. An ephemeral Mälaren cohabitates with the apparent one; Charon’s Crows transform the space of the ferry route into a realm of night traversal.





Mälaren

This is an excerpt from Vart ska dom ta vägen nu? (Where will they go Now?), where several participants spoke about the waters of the city. The whole piece can be heard here.

This is an example of one of a great many field recordings I have taken over the last ten years of the waterways of Stockholm, and is used in the excerpt above. These are ships moored along the shore at Kastellholmen. There are over 200 boat clubs in the city, and many of the shores are lined with boats and marinas.