‘“Do not smoke or eat seeds in here”, a notice in one of the offices, always moved me to an almost tearful smile. The seed habit, with its consequent litter, for beguiling the empty stomach, was to be reckoned with and legislated for as much as smoking. There was a symbolic pathos about the old man with his huge baskets of seeds — pumpkin and other varieties — always standing in the entryway at headquarters.′
Starr wrote the above description of strikers who must eat seeds to ease their hunger and who, despite this hardship, choose to keep the strike office tidy by forbidding the snack, in her article “Reflections on the Recent Chicago Strike of Clothing Workers.’ The 1915 strike was, she continues, in many ways, similar to past strikes. ‘There was the same array of money power, press power, police power, against the relative powerlessness of the dispossessed and the unenfranchised. Sixty percent of the strikers were women, and even a larger percent of the men were not voters.’
Starr established the Hull House bindery after training at Doves Bindery in England in 1897-98 and for three months in 1899 with T.J. Cobden-Sanderson, the very man who coined the term ‘Arts and Crafts.’ We also owe to him the lesser known social ideal of the ‘Book Beautiful’, in which the individual craftsperson recognizes that s/he is only one in a community of people needed in the production of the common good, be it a book, a building, or life itself.
Chicago Daily News negatives collection, DN-0062288, Chicago Daily News negatives collection,
Courtesy of Chicago History Museum.
Ellen Gates Starr, bookbinding pattern, photocopy from “Ellen Gates Starr Papers 1885-1940,”
University of Illinois in Chicago.
Starr was also a labour activist; during the Chicago Garment Workers’ Strike of 1910 she was in charge of the picket lines with over 40,000 strikers who spoke nine languages.
Starr had been active in Chicago’s labor movement from the time the clothing cutters and tailors went on strike in 1896. Most of Hull House's neighbors, of course, were workers and its doors were open to those who wished to organize. Hull House was also a stronghold for Chicago's chapter of the National Women's Trade Union League (WTUL) formed to aid female workers who were unsupported by existing trade unions. Starr became one of the charter members in 1904.
The WTUL was integral to the success of the strike of the United Garment Workers in 1910-11. It began when Annie Shapiro walked off her job at Hart, Shaffner and Marx when they lowered their workers’ wages, thus sparking a protest that rose like a wave across the garment industry in Chicago. This strike also hearkens back to the beginnings of Chicago's labor movement when in 1867, 1877, and 1886 thousands of unorganized men, women and children from across all ethnic lines took to the streets. More often than not these strikes were resolved violently by the state. Thus when forty thousand immigrants and women took to the streets in 1910 the WTUL saw that it might help avert the violent class struggle that marked Chicago's labour history.
The WTUL publicized and represented the strikers' side of the story. The vast majority of strikers were simply not able to communicate with the English speaking and reading public. They also walked the picket lines, protecting the strikers from the violence inflicted on them by hired detectives and police. They also attended court proceedings, provided bail and helped the strikers navigate the legal system. They helped in the formation of unions, in fundraising, and not the least of their efforts went into the unbelievable effort needed to provide forty-five thousand strikers with food, coal and clothing over the winter. The social structures created to feed, clothe and house the strikers were arranged outside of, yet utilized, distribution methods already in place. The strikers and their allies in Chicago formed democratic units not just as a way to bargain for rights, but as a way to meet basic needs. Another remarkable feature of this strike was that they won; the WTUL helped draft the final agreement.
Sarah Alford, Mr. Dodge: The Bibliography Raincoat (detail), 2008, hot glue
text from William Morris' The King's Lesson (1892)
Sarah Alford, Mr. Dodge: The Bibliography Raincoat (detail), 2008, hot glue
text from William Lucas Sargant's Robert Owen and HIs Social Philosophy (1860)
Ellen Gates Starr is best known as Jane Addams’ (1860-1935) partner in the co-founding of Hull House, Chicago’s first social settlement in 1889. Hull House attracted other residents, and they worked closely with their neighbours in a desperately impoverished immigrant neighbourhood. On the most basic level they fought to have Chicagoans understand that the poor did not deserve to be poor and they created a space in which their neighbours could read, dine, view art, organize and express controversial, even illegal, political opinions.
This intervention was done on the corner of Van Buren and Franklin streets in Chicago. On this corner Starr confronted the police for harassing the striking women. Attached to the clothespins are stories about the strike told in the strikers’ own words.
The waitresses during this strike were not allowed, by court order, to speak to anyone. So they handed out these cards. I printed these cards on cookies and stickers and stuck them around places the waitresses handed them out. This one is on the window of the Daley Center, which was the site of the restaurant where the strike took place. It’s a decal, not a sticker. The waitresses may have been brave, but I was very intimidated by the Daley Center’s intense security presence.
In this intervention I also made pigeon print cookies, dusted them with purple sugar and laid them out as sort of picket line where people would have to negotiate them by stepping on them, or over them. The cookies were almost invisible. There are a lot of pigeon tracks in the sidewalks of Chicago. Pigeons don’t seem to mind walking over wet cement. But if you don’t look for them, you might miss them. In making the cookies, I hoped to raise the prints up, in a way. Rise them up out of the sidewalk so that instead of an indent, they were three dimensional. Even though they were very small cookies, and quite thin, more people than I had imagined noticed that fragile line and negotiated it with care. In fact, it was so cold that day, that much of my observation took place over a cup of coffee across the street. When I went back after almost an hour, I was surprised that the line was almost still completely intact. It made me think that it might only take a small gesture for the invisible tracks, deeds and historical events to become visible. To rise up from the ground upon which they once walked.
This is a letter I wrote to the people who live where Ellen Gates Starr made a speech announcing why she became a Socialist candidate for Alderman. The location she made the speech is now a closed and gated street, so I delivered her speech to a mailbox I could reach from the gate.
In 1912, arising from the suffragette and labor movements came Rose Schneiderman’s famous declaration that women are fighting not just for bread but for roses; working women should have the same rights as rich women to beauty, life and sunshine. Starr believed that the struggle for bread, roses and freedom were all bound up together, that art was an expression through, and not apart from, common life. Although Starr might not have admitted this, I also believe that William Morris’s insistence that joy is the inherent counterpart to creative labour gave Starr the courage to claim this joy not just for others but for herself. Starr did not stop bookbinding until she became paraplegic due to unsuccessful back surgery in 1928. In Starr’s exemplary life of service, her bookbinding was the one thing that she consistently did for herself; the courage and consciousness that can be rallied and raised from making something well, should never be underestimated.
I made Mr. Dodge: The Bibliography Raincoat after a raincoat Starr inherited from Mr. Dodge, as thanks for finding him ‘suitable chess partners.’ She wore it constantly, earning her a reputation for eccentricity. I drew the pattern from her book cover design, then drew it on photocopies of every book she ever mentions reading. I photocopied the books, read each page, drew the print with hot glue on the page and then peeled the page off to make the lace. The coat is one and a half times the size of what she would have worn.
The above images are of hidden labour. In this case, it is a message from the Common Wealth Edison electric utility that some work is about to be done on that ground. Someone you hardly ever see makes that mark, the electricity itself travels invisibly and, unless you’re initiated, you can’t read what this spray paint mark is directing another worker to do and where. I had been observing these marks of labour on the sidewalk for quite some time and they mostly look like the first image. However, one day, our local mark maker was replaced, or developed into the person who made the second image, which became quite a common local sight. My first thought when I saw this was to William Morris and John Ruskin who would have read this latter worker as evidence of joy in labour, someone exhibiting the pleasure of mastery and freedom in his or her labour. This may not translate into mastery and freedom in his or her job, of course, but for British Victorians the difference between these two kinds of marks became a matter of parliament. Whole movements and schools were created around this difference, some for the classical simplicity and the objective design of the first and some for the gothic wanderings of the hand in the other. And here it all is, on the sidewalk, in direct conversation with the Victorian era stone carving around the doorways.
This is an example of what happened as Ellen Gates Starr’s bookbinding print went through my alteration and was drawn in hot glue on a page of John Ruskin’s The Nature of Gothic from 1853. Ruskin was the grandfather of the Arts and Crafts movement. He wrote ‘We have much studied and much perfected, of late, the great civilized invention of the division of labour; only we give it a false name. It is not, truly speaking, the labour that is divided; but the men: — Divided into mere segments of men — broken into small fragments and crumbs of life; so that all the little piece of intelligence that is left in a man is not enough to make a pin or a nail, but exhausts itself in making the point of a pin or the head of a nail.’
Sarah Alford, Mr. Dodge: The Bibliography Raincoat (in process), 2008, hot glue
text from Starr's notes
Bookbinding was integral to Starr’s life and in was integral to her labour activism. In her article “The Renaissance of Handicraft,” she wrote ‘The artist to be an artist, indeed, should come to his work not fatigued but justified in enjoying himself by having done something serviceable to common needs either that day or at some time not too remote, and by the expectation of again serving others in the natural order of life.’ Other evidence of the relationship between Starr’s activism and her bookbinding practice is found in one of T.J. Cobden-Sanderson’s short scribbled notes, dated February 11, 1911. It is pasted into a presentation copy of St. Francis’ Laudes Creaturarium, now in Chicago’s Newberry Library. In the note he asks Starr to donate the fees she still owes him to the cause of Chicago’s striking garment workers.
‘Dear Miss Starr,
I have just this moment received your letter and was much touched by our account of the strike of the garment workers & beg you to keep all the book you bound & rein the balance of your account when you have it at your disposal to the cause… And I will send you another Laudes for yourself: let it be my present to you in all affection… have this same struggle going on here, indeed the world wide.
Return to us dear Miss Starr,
With much affection & truly yours,
T.J. Cobden-Sanderson’
The day before, February 12, 1911, in his journal he writes:
‘It is not we alone who are moving forward. The whole Cosmos is moving, rushing forward with us. The whole animate world is not static for our contemplation, but is animate with us, and with us advancing, bound after bound, as, downstream, all the body of water rushes onward pell-mell to the sea. So I must not think of all things as centred in me but rather as I centred in the centre of all, I with all on-rushing.’
Sarah Alford, Mr. Dodge: The Bibliography Raincoat (detail), 2008, hot glue
text from Sarah Alford's handwritten research notes
Sarah Alford, Mr. Dodge: The Bibliography Raincoat (detail), 2008, hot glue
image on collar from T.J. Cobden-Sanderson's book bindings
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